Is It Really Possible to Understand Kitten Behavior?
0 comments Published Thursday, 14 June 2012 by in Behavior? , Kitten , Possible , Really , UnderstandBySonia Manning
Believe it or not, there is a lot to learn about kitten behavior! Aside from appreciating that nearly every single thing they do is ridiculously adorable, they are learning a lot and ultimately shaping their future personality during these early weeks. The more you understand about your current or future feline-friend, the better off you will be!
Starting at the Beginning
If you have a cat having kittens, have found abandoned ones or are simply wondering what your kitten has gone through before coming into your home, you may as well get educated from the beginning.
• Birth to Two Weeks - By the time the kitten reaches two weeks, eyes begin to open and they are getting familiar with sounds around them. Competing for rank and territory has already started.
• Two to Eight Weeks - They can see well enough to recognize their mother at three weeks and their sense of smell has developed. They are walking (even if it is clumsy) and their teeth come in by week four. Then, a week later, they start pouncing and learning to avoid obstacles. By the eighth week, kittens know how to groom themselves and socially interact. They have also developed motor skills and sleeping patterns.
• Two to Three Months - This is their most active play period. They learn to ambush, lick, hug, toss, paw, hold, chase and leap during this period.
• Three to Six Months - During these months, they see and use dominance or submissive behaviors either within their litter or in their household with their humans and other pets.
Importance of Socializing
A kitten that is abandoned or taken away from its litter-mates too early will miss out on a valuable socialization period. They may be more withdrawn or timid or they can be completely opposite and end up being quite aggressive towards both people and other pets.
Kittens are generally weaned around seven weeks however, some do suckle longer than this if they are looking for comfort when their mother starts leaving them for extended periods of time. Kittens that have been weaned too soon or orphaned will often suckle on pillows, blankets, your arm or anything else, long after they are adults.
Those that aren't granted enough socialization time with their mother and litter-mates will have a hard time reading signals. They don't know where the line is drawn between mouthing and biting or they may become too rough when wrestling.
It is suggested that skills not acquired before the kitten is eight weeks old may never be learned. It has also been proven that kittens held by people daily for 15 to 40 minutes, before they are 7 weeks old will generally develop larger brains.
Unfavorable Behavior
If you are thinking about getting a kitten, there is some behavior you need to be prepared to deal with that you may not find all that cute.
• Scratching - Kittens scratch to condition their nails, release energy and mark their territory. Don't get mad, simply redirect them to a nice scratching post.
• Soiling Outside the Litter Box - When a dog goes potty in the house, it's easily cleaned; cats are a different story. Make sure that you have a quality product on hand to clean any messes so the smell doesn't linger and so they are not tempted to return to that spot.
• Playing too Rough - Generally this is mainly a concern when a kitten has been weaned too soon. They will chase you, pretend to bite (or sometimes bite for real!) and they may even chew your arm or feet.
• Jumping - If you don't want your kitten on your counter or table, stop this at an early age. An easy trick is to take pieces of gift tape and create bubbles with them and stick them along the edges of the counter. The gift tape isn't strong enough to even pull their hair if it does stick but it annoys them enough to not continue to try.
Kittens may show changes in behavior or may start acting out for a number of reasons. They could be bored, lonely, anxious, stressed, scared, hungry or unhappy with changes in schedule or environment. It should also be noted that some may display peculiar behaviors like licking dirt, dry nursing, wool sucking and fur pulling. Sometimes they are a passing phase, other times they could be a cause for concern. You should always address any kitten behavior concerns with your vet if you feel there may be a mental or physical health issue.
If your kitten needs help jumping up on your bed or climbing to his favorite window perch, Cat Stairs can help!
For answers to older cat's behaviors, visit Sonia Manning's Cat Behavior Solutions where you can also receive a free mini-course on "Secrets About Your Cat's Behavior: Why He Does the Things He Does!"
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The Basics of Adopting a Kitten - Feeding, Vaccinating and More
0 comments Published Wednesday, 9 May 2012 by in Adopting , Basics , Feeding , Kitten , Vaccinating
Adopting a kitten is exciting, but it comes with several responsibilities. Before you adopt one, you must understand the basics of feeding, medications, grooming, training, exercise and sleep.
Feeding:
There are several types of food you can try with your kitten; it may like some, but not others. It is beneficial to feed him food in a variety of flavors, smells and textures. Depending on its age, the amount it needs to be fed each day varies. For example, a kitten 2-3 months old should eat 4 times a day, but a kitten 6-12 months old typically only needs to eat twice a day. It is also important to provide them with plenty of water. If you suspect there may be something wrong with your cat's eating habits, a veterinarian will assist you in caring for your kitten. You may also want to consider a.
Vaccinating:
You should vaccinate your kitten against certain diseases fairly early in their life. Most cats need to be vaccinated for rhinotracheitis (feline herpes), calici virus and panleukopenia (feline parvovirus). Depending on some other factors, there may be more vaccinations that your kitten needs and can be determined by a veterinarian. All cats should be prescribed with a heartworm medication-this is especially important for felines that live in heartworm areas. It is also important to provide your cat with a flea prevention treatment monthly; there are a number of treatments that can be purchased at the vet or over the counter that will assist you with that.
Grooming:
One aspect of life that most kittens absolutely do not enjoy is grooming. That is why it's beneficial to start early and to make grooming fun. Be gentle while still removing hair to decrease hairball formation. Cats also need to have their teeth brushed every day; however, there are special feline toothpastes that should be used instead of human toothpaste. Check your cat's ears at least once a week to ensure that there are no infections. Not all cats need regular bathing, but if it is something you feel is necessary, be sure to use an appropriate shampoo that is gentle and protects the kitten's skin.
Training:
Training kittens is not difficult if you have patience and use the right tactics. Make sure you reinforce good behavior with praise and treats. Litter box training is the most common training procedure with cats, but it really isn't that hard of a process. Try to buy a fine-grained, clumping litter, absent of perfume. Make sure you keep it sanitary by cleaning the box daily and washing it weekly. It may be helpful to provide your cat with a scratching post so it does not scratch your furniture or other important items.
Exercise:
Kittens need exercise, just like we do! This isn't hard because they are very playful most of the time. Try to play with your feline for frequent, short periods so you don't rid too much of his energy. Also, toys are helpful especially ones that can be chewed as they are beneficial for teething.
Sleep:
Sleep is the final factor your need to think about before buying a kitten. They are most likely going to sleep a lot because they are growing. For example, and 8-week old kitten may need 20 hours of sleep where as a 12-month old kitten may need 12-14 hours. Make sure to provide your kitten with a comfortable sleeping area that may include a bed, towels or anything else to keep them comfortable.
Again, adopting a kitten is fun but it comes with several responsibilities that must be considered. If you have questions, talk to a veterinarian and they will steer you the right way!
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Bringing Home a New Kitten to an Older Cat
0 comments Published Sunday, 8 January 2012 by in Bringing , Kitten , Older
Introducing a new kitten to your family cat can be a bit of a worry. I've had both female and male kittens when I've had an older cat of the opposite sex and it's always been stressful. There are people who say that once a cat has been neutered it won't matter there sex. Maybe that's true for some people but it didn't work for me. Other theories suggest that they will get on better if they're opposites but I have found that on two occasions this hasn't worked. When I had an old male cat and brought home a female kitten he was terrified. As tiny as she was she made it clear that she was in charge from the start. Poor old man. So when he passed away and I looked at getting a friend for her I thought I'd do it the other way round and look for a male kitten. That didn't work either. She soon put him in his place. However, now that he's a big boy and has fallen head over heels in love with her they get on great. Of course she will still pin him down when he's missed a bit when washing, but other than that they both enjoy each others company.
So what steps can you take to give the new member of your family a head start with the resident cat.
First of all make sure you have some time to devote to settling them in. They will be very stressed if you're not around enough. Remember they've just been separated from their mother and this new home is dauntingly large and has new smells they don't recognise.
Then choose a room for the kitten to stay in for a few days. Buy a new litter tray, bed, scratch post and cat toys. It's not advisable to use anything from the other cat as the kitten needs to start off establishing his own scent on his toys. Also use new cat bowls for food and water. Don't allow your other cat in the room. They will be able to sense that the other is there and that will be enough for them to cope with in the beginning. It will also allow them both to get used to the others scent without having to meet straight away.
Try and act as normal as possible with your other cat. Of course when they come to you a lot of affection will be needed and the occasional treat will be greatly received. They don't want you to forget that they are top cat. It will also make it easier when the kitten is introduced as the other cat will feel more secure that you love them just as much as you did before.
After a while you can bring an item to your cat that your new kitten has been playing with and vice versa to help with scent swapping.
Now, for the introduction....
Leave the door ajar and let them meet in their own time. Be present for this first meeting. If you can, take a few days off to be around as much as possible, if not try to do this over a weekend.
They will hiss at each other, don't interfere. They will probably growl and paw at each other, don't interfere. There may even be a bit of fur flying as well, only separate them if it gets nasty.
Never shout or punish either cat, this is normal behaviour in the feline world, they will just be sorting out cat rank and house position between them.
Keep the kitten bowls, beds and litter tray in their room as your cat will be very upset if his or her pattern is messed up. Territory is being mapped out between them at this time. It is also a safe place for your kitten to retreat to if it all becomes a bit too much.
After a few days try to encourage them to play together. Nothing complicated a simple ball or string game. Chances are your older cat will watch, stretch, yawn and walk off, but at least it's some interaction between them.
As cute as this little bundle of fur is don't forget to give your other cat equal attention, jealousy in a cat is a scary thing! Don't think your older cat will forgive you.
They can take months even a year to get used to each other. Remember cats are very independent and are used to being the bosses in life, so they will get there when they get there.
Of course you can try and follow every tip in the world, but there is always the chance that they won't get along simply because their characters clash. There are so many tips out there, my personal one, which I have tried and tested, has worked for me. Most people will completely disagree and pretty much every pet site will say the opposite to me, but whenever I've had two neutered cats of the same sex it has worked every time.
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That's why we have a variety of flea, worming and fur treatments.
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4 Tips on How to Train a Kitten
0 comments Published Friday, 6 January 2012 by in Kitten , TrainByJulie Hayward
Adopting a kitten is a fun experience. Caring for a small creature that is total dependent on you can be a bit stressful at first, but having a kitten to play with can change your life. Unfortunately, kittens rarely come a home ready to use the litter-box. Learning how to train a kitten is not hard if you are dedicated and patient. My four tips on how to train a kitten will make the entire potty training process move faster, and they will help you avoid making any potentially messy mistakes.
Start Right Away
The most common mistake new kitten owners make is waiting to start toilet training. The average kitten is ready to start using the litter box when they are only one month old, so waiting for a long period of time can actually do more harm than good. Once you get your kitten home, place them in a small space with their litter-box and let them grow used to standing in it and walking around. Do not bother them by petting or stroking them when they are in the box to wee.
Kittens will grow nervous about using a box for peeing if they are always being touched when they enter it. Think of it this way, would you like someone standing over you each time you used the bathroom? Getting started right away will keep your kitten from learning bad potty habits that you will have to train out of them in the future.
Avoid Changes
Once you have placed the litter-box in a certain location, leave it there. Changing the location of the box will confuse your kitten. After a while, the kitten will stop looking for the box and might start going to the bathroom on the ground where the litter-box last was. Pick a place for the box and keep it there until your kitten is old enough to understand that their litter box has been moved, and change their habits accordingly.
Keep it Clean
Just because the litter box is a toilet does not mean it should smell like one. Cats are clean creatures, and they will not use a box that is dirty. Make sure your new kitten always has a clean box for them to wee in by cleaning it at least once a day. If the litter-box is always clean, your kitten will grow used to using it all of the time and associate it with a "clean" place to use the bathroom.
Don't Punish Your Kitten
Mistakes and accidents will happen no matter how dedicated you are to toilet training your kitten, they may use the bathroom on the floor in the house. When that happens, do not punish the kitten excessively. Telling the kitten that they are "bad" and taking them to the litter box is enough. Often accidents happen because the kitten is sick, scared, or nervous about something that just happened. Punishing the kitten will only add to their anxiety, and cause them to avoid you, the litter-box, and anything else that they find frightening.
It is important to start learning how to train a kitten as soon as you bring them home from their former home. Creating a safe, consistent, learning environment for your kitten will keep them happy and teach them that there is nothing wrong with using a litter box. If you would like to continue learning from my experiences on how to potty train a cat, find more of my tips and the 2 resources that helped me at http://howtotoilettrainacat.info.
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How to Train a Kitten Quickly
0 comments Published Sunday, 25 December 2011 by in Kitten , Quickly , TrainByJulie Hayward
I often get asked by friends from my personal experience. Though training a kitten requires patience, there are some situations where training a cat slowly just isn't an option. As someone who has adopted kittens shortly before bringing a new baby home, I know how important it is to get a kitten litter box trained immediately.
Unfortunately, the average cat is extremely stubborn and will not react well to any type of forceful training. If you are someone who needs to learn without causing the kitty any unnecessary stress, hopefully my advice will help you.
Stick to Small Spaces
Keeping your new feline in its own small space will make things easier for you and for her. Place your kitty in a room of their own with a litter-box for the first few weeks of their life. Not having to worry about your kitten becoming lost in your home, or having to fear stumbling across a cat accident in a bad place, will make training a kitten less stressful for you.
Plus, keeping your new kitten in their own small space will help them grow accustomed to their new home. Kittens will grow nervous if they are forced to find their way around a large, new, space too soon; so keeping them safe in a small space is the best option for everyone. The next strategy is very effective when learning how to train a kitten.
Reward Them Constantly
Kittens respond well to lavish praise and frequent treats. Though many animal trainers warn against spoiling a new kitten, when you need to litter train a kitten quickly you may need to take the risk. Offering your kitten a variety of treats for successfully using the litter box will motivate them to use the box regularly.
Kittens love surprises and new things, so switch up the treats on a regular basis to keep them interested. A kitten who is always receiving rewards and praise for using the litter box will become fully trained faster than a kitten who is always afraid of punishment.
Use Multiple Litter Boxes
If you own more than one kitten, you should also own more than one box. Many cat owners stick to one litter-box for two cats because they don't want to clean two litter boxes. Unfortunately, this makes things more difficult for everyone. With two kittens using one box, they are more likely to dirty it quickly.
Once a litter box becomes dirty, your kittens are not going to want to use it. Getting two litter boxes will avoid a situation where one box is extremely dirty, and will make the kitten feel more comfortable using the litter-box since they won't fear encountering the filth of another kitten.
It is most important to know that most common kitten training mistakes occur without the owner even knowing they are doing something wrong. While there's a lot to learn to toilet train a kitten, if you're willing to put some effort into learning training kittens and how to potty train a cat then I'm willing to let you in on my experience.
About 2 years ago an "on faith" purchase of a resource on how to train a kitten saved my family's cat from going back to the pet shop and as such I am now using my blog as a way to review the products and care guides that I found most helpful. Find my top 2 favourites at http://howtotoilettrainacat.info.
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Introducing A New Kitten
0 comments Published Saturday, 29 October 2011 by in Introducing , KittenByFaith Elaine Smith
Want a new kitten for a friend? If you want to have a loving kitten, or if this is your first time caring for new kitten, it's vital that you simply follow these recommendations on taking care of cats, and of course, utilize them. This article shares basic kitten care information, so read on.
Kittens are playful and heart capturing creatures, so long as you know all about taking care of kittens properly. For those who already own a kitty, and those who would like to guarantee that they have a loving cat, here's some cat care information. Make certain you understand your kitten and are truly caring for a new kitten the proper way. Follow the rules shared right here and see how your relationship with your cat becomes more fulfilling.
From the second you arrive home with your new kitten, it is best to carry it directly to its personal space, and its new litter box. It is important to give it time to adjust to its surroundings, adjust to you, and to the other folks in the household. Why does the new kitten need to have an area of its own? Effectively, for it to really feel comfy, it needs its personal space whether or not it's a separate room, a small basket, or a bit of mat. So a tip on taking good care of cats is to have a space prepared even before you bring your kitten home. For your pet to adjust to you quickly, it is recommended that you simply murmur soothingly to it, pet and stroke it gently, and before you even realize it, you will start to own a loving kitten.
One important piece of information every kitten owner should know is that permitting cats to go outside is highly recommended. Nevertheless, should you live in a high traffic area, or if the neighborhood isn't that safe for felines, you may elect to have your kitten remain indoors. If your kitten is to remain indoors, it's a must to follow this part on caring for your cat. Be certain that it has sufficient play time so that it will hopefully still get exercise inside your house, and so that it won't get bored. Cats, like people, need some change in their daily life. Make sure to provide toys like balls, colorful toys or strings, things that squeak, and so on. Kittens like to play, and you may make your kitty completely satisfied to stay indoors when you give it toys. Very important to your new relationship with your cat is taking time with the kitty each day. This will ensure that you will have a loving cat in your home.
How you introduce your kitten to it's new home will set the stage for your long term relationship with your new kitten. Learn how to assure yourself that you will have that loving relationship with your new friend by following some basic rules. http://www.kittyzom.com
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Kitten Care - Should I Put an ID Tag on My Kitten?
0 comments Published Thursday, 27 October 2011 by in Kitten , Kitten? , Should
Once a kitten comes into your home you may consider attaching some form of identification label on your new pet. However, there are a couple of problems with this. Firstly the standard cat collars needed to attach a disc or capsule will almost certainly be too large for a kitten to wear. Additionally kittens grow at a very fast rate and any collar could quickly become too tight around their necks. Another point is that kittens should not really be allowed to wander away from the home during the early part of their lives.
As the kitten grows so will its curiosity and it is then they will want to investigate the great world beyond your front door. This is the time to consider fitting your kitten with a means of identification. There is large range of options when it comes to choosing something to attach to your cats collar. Probably the most common is the engraved metal tag. These are available from pet shops and engravers and unless your cat loses the tag, (which does sometimes happen) or you move will last the cat's lifetime. Another popular option is a small metal or plastic cylinder in which you can insert and secure a piece of paper containing the important information. If you use one of the methods relying on paper written information you will have to ensure that the container will protect it from water. You should also use permanent ink that is unlikely to fade over time.
The next question is what information to put on the identification label. All that is needed is either yours or the cats name and a telephone number. If you are writing the information make sure that it is easy to read, possibly using block capitals is best especially if your writing is not always easy to decipher.
An alternative to a collar and tag is to have your kitten or cat implanted with an ID chip. This is a simply procedure which your vet can do for you. Quite often owners will have their cats micro chipped at the same time they are being neutered, ideally between 6 to 8 months. The details of all micro chipped pets are retained on a computer and should a chipped animal be found they can be quickly reunited with their owners. The major advantage of the micro chip is that once the chip is implanted it is for life and there is no fear of the cat losing its ID information.
. In summary there is no need for a kitten to be tagged while it is small and confined to the house and supervised in your garden. However, once it becomes a little more curious and brave you should seriously consider either giving your kitten a collar and tag or having them micro chipped.
Being a cat owner comes with responsibilities you need to know about Cat Care. To find free articles about looking after your cat visit http://www.cat-lovers.co.uk
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How to Tame a Wild Kitten
0 comments Published Wednesday, 24 August 2011 by in Kitten
Actually, taming a kitten is not that difficult. It doesn't matter whether it's wild or not. All kittens are innocent, naive and just starting out with no knowledge. They are in "learn mode," just as youngsters of other species are.
The variable factors to consider are age, health, environment and whether the mother cat is present. A kitten born outdoors without benefit of human contact will of course become a wild adult, and taming at that time would be difficult, it not impossible. This is even more difficult if the mother is wary of humans and won't let you near her kitten(s). If that is the case, the taming process will include her, too. But for now, let's assume the kitten is alone.
Since even a wild kitten can be overcome by a human, a good first step after capture is to get a health evaluation.
Once the little one is certified healthy, you can begin by keeping him or her in a cage. It must be large enough to allow room to move around comfortably and still have access to a bed, litter box and food dishes. If you've acquired the kitten from a wild environment, the cage is the best way to start. This decreases the size of their known world and gives them the opportunity to examine it and get used to it, but more importantly, to learn that you are the giver of all things...food, water, warmth, security and comfort.
If there is more than one kitten, they can be caged together for security and comfort if they are very young. If older, it's better to cage them separately so you are the primary caregiver. This will help the kitten get used to you and eventually bond with you.
Since a wild kitten has no experience with being touched by humans, the cage experience will help you to demonstrate that your touch can be comforting and trusted. Just don't betray that trust.
Begin by reaching into the cage either with a gloved hand, or a brush, such as a simple one-inch or two-inch paint brush. When the kitten bites or scratches it, you'll see why you're using it. The kitten needs to get used to being touched. Gently stroke along the back and the head, imitating the licking movements the kitten would normally receive from its mother. In time, as the little one learns that your hand is a source of comfort and that you bring nice things, like food and water, you will be able to use your bare hand. Work with the kitten many times a day to help him become accustomed to you.
Since kittens learn quickly, you should be able to hold one in both hands in less than a week if you've been working on gaining trust. But this is not a sign that it's time to let him run loose. He will need to stay in his cage for at least another week, perhaps two, at least at night when you're getting some sleep. If left loose in the house too soon, you may have a time locating him the next morning.
Once he's accepted that you are in charge and taking good care of him, it's time to play with him to help build a bond of trust and enjoyment of each other's company.
You may have to experiment with the types of toys that interest the kitty, but in general, they enjoy batting at things, and "attacking" something dangled or dragged along in front of them.
You can also leave a small stuffed toy in the cage while he's still confined, to give him something to play with, snuggle with, and to look at when you're not around.
When cleaning the interior of the cage along with the items in it, you will have to put the kitten into another cage, or pet carrier, or have someone hold him firmly but gently while you quickly clean things. If there's still a chance of being bitten, use heavy gloves to move him into another container until his cage is ready. However, small kittens are quite easy to manage by simply grasping the skin on the back of the neck, as the mother does when moving one.
Realistically, if everything goes well, you can expect to tame a wild kitten within a few weeks.
Visit http://www.theproblemcat.com/kittens.html for more information about caring for kittens.
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Your New Kitten
0 comments Published Wednesday, 17 August 2011 by in Kitten
The first step toward having a good pet cat is choosing a healthy kitten. Visit a litter of kittens about two weeks before they are ready to leave their mother. They will be six weeks old. Ask permission to pick up the kittens and be very gentle when to do so. Make sure that a kitten has clear, bright eyes and a shiny, full coat. Check the skin under the fur for any problems such as sores, rashes or bald spots. You want to choose a kitten that has healthy skin.
Next, make sure that the kitten is neither too thin nor too fat. A kitten that is either all skin and bones or has a bloated belly is likely to have an infection. Do not select such a kitten. Also check the kitten's nose and ears for any sign of discharge or infection.While you are checking for signs of physical health, take note of the kitten's temperament. Carry the kitten to another part of the room and watch how it behaves. Is it nervous or scared? Does it respond to gentle petting by growing calmer? You want a kitten that adjusts quickly to you. This is a sign it has been handled by the owners of the litter, which is important in preparing the kitten for living with people.
It is extremely important to start out with a friendly cat. A scratching, hissing or terribly frightened kitten will grow up to be a difficult cat at best. At worst, the kitten will never become a friendly, loving pet. After you have chosen a kitten that you like, make arrangements to pick it up when it is ready to leave its mother (when it is about eight weeks old). A day or two after you get , take it to a veterinarian (an animal doctor). The vet will give it the first in a series of shots to protect it against common cat diseases. Tell the vet if you intend to let the cat outdoors. If you do intend to let it out, the kitten may need a shot to protect it against rabies.
The vet will also examine the kitten for signs of disease. Bring along sample of the kitten's dropping so that the doctor can check for worms.
If the vet gives you medicine for the kitten, make sure that you or one of your parents understands how to give medicine. Ask the vet or the vet's assistant to show the proper method. Give the medicine to the kitten exactly as directed by the vet. Twice a day is not good enough if the kitten is supposed to get medicine three times a day. Young kittens like to eat every few hours, about four times a day. At each meal, serve a saucer of fresh milk alongside a small dish of dry cat food. For one or two of the meals, mix in canned food (meat or fish). If the kitten gets diarrhea, switch to powdered milk. If the diarrhea continues, reduce the amount of milk and the number of meals at which it is served.
Kittens love occasional treats, such as fresh liver, kidney or cottage cheese. But dry cat food is the best thing for a steady diet. Keep treats to once or twice a week. As the kitten grows older, you can gradually reduce the number of meals. At six months, two meals each day are adequate. At one year, one meal a day is all that is needed. If your cat pesters you for a second meal, give a little more than half of the one-meal portion twice a day. The size of portions is usually recommended on the cat food box.
For , and later your adult cat, keep a bowl filled with fresh water all times.
Although your kitten will decide for itself where it will sleep, it might enjoy a soft, snug spot you prepare for it. A fluffy, clean hand towel folded and placed in a shoe box that sits on its side, could make an attractive bed for your kitten. But the kitten may just decide to perch itself on a chair instead. You will have to help your kitten get used to using a litter box to go to the bathroom. Getting your cat used to a litter box is usually easy, because cats are naturally clean and like to bury their droppings. A litter box is nothing more than a shallow rectangular container. The easiest kind to use is made of soft plastic. Into this you pour cat litter, which is sold in stores. Cover the bottom of the litter box with about two inches of cat litter.
Take your kitten to its litter box as soon you bring it home. Sometimes that first visit is all is needed. But until you are sure that the kitten understands, take it there after each feeding. Sometimes cats will not use a litter box if something about the particular brand of litter is not to their liking. Occasionally they will avoid the box if its location is not private enough. Try to solve these problems if the kitten does not use the litter box from the start.
About the only unpleasant task involved in owning a cat is cleaning the litter box every two or three days. If you do not clean it, the box will begin to smell. Empty all the used litter into a paper or plastic bag and take it outside to the garbage. Then wash the litter box with soap and water. Put the newly filled box back in the same place, so that you do not upset your cat's routine.
If you plan on allowing your cat to go to outside, you may decide to let it go to bathroom outdoors. In this case, do not provide a litter box. Instead, take outdoors to a spot where there is a patch of dirt in which it can dig and burry. After a few days, the kitten will wait by the door to be let out. Some people even install little cat doors so that their pets can come and go as they please.
An outdoor cat should wear a collar with an identification tag on it. The tag should give that cat's name as well as your name and address. Now that you know how to make your kitten feel welcome in its new home, it is time for you and your kitten to get to know one another.
Caring For Your Cat
http://ilovekitty.info
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Facts About Kitten Vaccinations
0 comments Published Monday, 15 August 2011 by in About , Facts , Kitten , VaccinationsBySilviu Hriscu
Unless your kitten is properly vaccinated, it is at risk of contracting one or many, possibly fatal, infectious diseases, as follows:
• Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (FVR);
• Calicivirus;
• Panleukopenia;
• Chlamydia;
• Feline Leukemia (FeLV);
• Rabies;
• Feline Heartworm Disease
Most common of these diseases, which are highly infectious, can be prevented by routinely administering vaccination. We must vaccinate our kittens for the most important and common of these diseases in order to protect them. It is a fact that vaccines have an effective result in more than 95% of cases. In addition, routinely vaccinating your cat is cheaper than if you pay for treating your sick pet later. Also, vaccination reduces the possibility of virus transmission in the pet population.
Some facts that you have to know in order to be informed about this subject and to better estimate the cost of kitten vaccinations:
• Newborn kittens receive protection from the first mother's milk (colostrums) if mother was vaccinated; ask the person who sell you the kitten if the cat was vaccinated;
• Kittens' immune systems are immature so they are not capable of developing long-lasting immunity until at least 16 weeks from birth. Booster series for kittens must be given every 3-4 weeks, due to the developing nature of their immune system and due to the interference from mothers' milk antibodies;
• cats should be vaccinated annually for most vaccines, after the initial booster series is administered to kittens, but some vaccines can be administered every 3 years; ask the vet about this;
• If a kitten has never received a vaccine before, and it is over 16 weeks old, it will need one additional dose in 3 to 4 weeks before starting on the annual or three-years schedule;
• Neither a kitten nor a cat should be vaccinated unless it is in an excellent state of health. If you have any doubts about the state of your cat's health you'd better ask the veterinarian examine your pet and be assured of a good health status;
• Ask the vet is the vaccine contains what is called an "adjuvant". Those with adjuvants are easier and cheaper to make. But there is some evidence that the inflammation appearing due to the adjuvant in the skin as it works, can (in rare cases) produce a type of malignant cancer;
• When comparing the prices of one clinic's vaccines with others on the web you need to be sure that you are comparing like with like. When comparing, you need to know which diseases are being protected against and included in the vaccine course and if it contains and is dependent of an adjuvant;
• In some countries (e.g. the U.K.),which are currently free of Rabies, this vaccine is unnecessary.
Take a responsible approach in vaccinating your kitten because in this way you will protect it form further problems in life.
Silviu,
http://priceofkittenvaccinations.blogspot.com/
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